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 As part of our new page dedicated to Triton Owners we are reprinting a post to the Woodwork Forums by Don Barton highlighting his experiences in installing a in his trusty Triton Router.

The installation is fairly straight-forward, but it does take about 2.5 hours to complete. (I went particularly slowly, because it involves modifying the router and I didn't want to mess up.)

The kit is universal, designed to fit many of the commonly used routers. Don't you just hate purchasing parts that you will never use? Although many are common to all routers, there are also a goodly number that are unique to the router you are retro-fitting.

The Router Raizer installs down the inside of the shaft of the micro-adjustable plunge-post. (This is the one with the spring cover cap that holds the compression spring. This spring is normally removed if being used in a table.) According to the instructions, it is necessary to use the long spring that I took out when I purchased this router 2 years ago. I was pleased that I could easily locate it. (I don't know why it is necessary, and I intend to check to see of this can be removed.)

The dust covers and bottom sub-base plate needs to be removed, and the pin that holds the shaft to the base needs to be knocked out. This goes through the hollow plunge post from one side to the other. Because the main shaft of the Router Raizer goes through this post the factory installed pin interferes. So two split pins need to be installed either side of the post to hold it to the bottom of the router. The main shaft of the Router Raizer also needs to be shortened to a specified length to fit the router. This is done with a hack-saw.

As long as one checks off the individual steps, reading carefully as one proceeds, anyone with a moderate mechanical aptitude shouldn't have any difficulties. Some of the parts have very similar names, so caution is required. For example, I became momentarily confused by the terms "green drive pin" and "green roll pin". Both of these parts are referred to in the same paragraph.

The only difficulty I encountered was locating where to drill the holes through the two pressed metal plates for the winder. The shaft winder has to go through the top router plate, and the quick-mount sub-plate. The locater pin used to drill through the router base and the template mounting plate does not extend far enough to mark these two plates. I overcame this by measuring carefully and hit the mark exactly.

Although I have not used the router to do any actual work since installing the Router Raizer, it seems to work well. It looks like a well designed kit, with well engineered pieces that look like they are part of the router. I foresee this making precise height adjustments from above the table very easy.

Triton router with spring cover cap, plastic dust shields removed

Spring cover cap with main shaft installed.
 

Installed and ready for the table....

The final result look what can be done with one hand!!!!!

Thanks to Don Barton for sharing his ideas and thoughts with us.

Don has added to his experiences with the following comments

I've done a little experimenting with the Router Raizer with reference to the long shaft spring in the Triton Router .

When this spring is removed, it is much easier to raise the router bit with the Router Raizer. It works very smoothly and remains in location on the shaft exactly where you stop. Running pieces through the router table has no affect on it. If you want a redundant assurance that it won't move, engage the lock lever.

However, if you use the router out of the router table, you must leave the long spring in. (I believe this is the reason for the warning in the instructions.) So the trade-off in this case would be slightly greater resistance when raising the bit whilst in table mode. But you need to make a decision; it is not possible to remove and re-install the spring. There are two locking spring clamps fitted to the Router Raiser main shaft to hold the spring in place that are destroyed if removed. It's either in, or out - not both.

I have a good Makita 3612 that I use for free-hand routing, so for me the Triton never comes out of the table.

The primary advantage of the R.R. is that it easily facilitates micro adjustments from a standing position when your view-point is directly above, or adjacent to, the router bit. No more down on your haunches under the table. With the handle installed above the table, it takes no time to crank the router bit its full travel distance by simply twirling the crank handle with ones thumb.

Unlike all other remotely similar accessories, this device allows this operation to be done from either the top of the router or the bottom. This means that it is just as easy to do in a router table as it is to do when used in hand-held operations (when shaft spring is installed).

I love it, and it's a darn sight cheaper than any other device I've seen that accomplishes the same thing. (Well almost the same thing, this is the only raiser that also works from below the table and out of the table.) It's a perfect compliment to the Triton Router with its above table bit changing capability. Once you use one, you wouldn't go back.

No, this is not a paid commercial - just a happy RR user!

Coming soon more.......... Suggestions, Ideas and Comments as to how our products can make the life of a Triton user more satisfying.